Surf, Loucura e Morte: Riders on the Storm

A silly season acabara, mas nunca mais lárgamos a praia. Naquela altura o surf era relativamente novo e era engraçado ver a reacção das pessoas quando iamos para a Rocha à chuva. De camioneta tinhamos de pagar despacho pelas pranchas, mas alguns picas perdoavam. Quando não tinhamos dinheiro iamos a pé. O Quim Cigano muitas …

Surf, Loucura e Morte: A idade da inocência

Conheci o Zé dos Cães e o irmão no cinema de Alvor , tinhamos para ai 13 anos. A minha mãe era colega da dele, professora de português no Ciclo Preparatório de Portimão. Tinha vindo de Angola para Lisboa fugidos da guerra quando o filho primogénito nasceu. O filme era Os Deuses devem estar loucos. …

Surf, Loucura e Morte: Introdução

Estávamos nos princípios dos anos 90 quando o Zé dos Cães estava no seu auge. Tinha sido campeão júnior na Costa da Caparica, o Shawn Tomson tinha acabado de o patrocinar e até aparecia nuns postais em França a surfar na Praia do Alemão, no Algarve. Foi uma altura louca do surf em Portugal, toda …

North Atlantic Notes From The Extreme Corner Of Europe

Winter time in the Algarves can and will be wild. If you don´t stay home, of course. Huge north atlantic swells start to hit the coast and expats start flocking to the confort of the south shore. Beauty can be found anywhere. west coast maxing out It´s been a while since I post here. Just …

Stay Home

Stumbled upon this video of Frank  the other day. It´s almost 50 years olds, but the song remains the same. We are stuck home, unhappy with almost zero liberty. It´s for our safety our great governors say. The airports are still open with no quarentines and very few control. Check it out: https://youtu.be/Y0F174HJpRI "The composer …

Fabien

I have been following this storm for some days now. Even Alex was amazed by it, and kind of bummed because he is injured. It changed to 7.2 at 19seconds interval with light onshore winds, but it is still epic in my eyes. One of the biggest in some years I think. Thought about going …

Russel Brek

There should be a comma in the title. I wouldn´t mind the name Russel though, kiwi Russel Crow is a cool bloke and this kid... what a bout Russel Bierke? Maybe the most talked surfer of the moment, right? His clip FLOWSTATE is setting the surf world on fire, for sure! Well, I met him not …

Crème De La Crème

I started logging some years ago after I saw Gato Heroi surfing at the Salinas Longboard festival, back in the day. It was not easy for me to make the transition after 3 decades of carving on little thrusters. I was only riding single fins at the end, but still I struggled. The finesse needed …

In Between Magic: Searching For Eurico Romaguera

You never know where the serendipitous journey of following perfect surf will take you. And if you are following Kiko´s footprints on this blue planet you better embrace some chaos on the way. Eurico Romaguera aka Kiko is a classic surfer who doesn´t like dawn patrols. He is allergic to kooks and bad taste in …

The Unexpected Wasted Talent Movie Premier In Lagos

I was surfing the the point at Ponta Ruiva when my friend Mealha told me Chipa Wilson was going crazy in the beach break. I heard Wasted Talent mag crew was around so had my gear at the car. Caught a wave in, got my housing ready and went for a swim. Got to shoot …